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7b_wizard -

Neuroscience of motor learning. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Activity-dependent_plasticity

IsaacDraper - - Parent

You might like 'Peak' by Eric Anders, or is it Anders Eric?

7b_wizard - - Parent

There does seem to be differing aptitudes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aptitude. According to the german WP article at least 52 genes (or mutations) have been identified, that have an effect on various factors of sportive performance. People are different after all ..

7b_wizard - - Parent

One more thing: phenomena like Qi, flow or harmony (also in e.g. music) are harder nuts to crack for science. So it is no wonder that from science, we get results and (more or less) well searched theories on one dimensional, causally measurable interdependencies, resulting in "If you do this, you get this or that good or bad effect." (let alone dubious guides on how to become a superhuman in three weeks).

But there's more to it, I believe. We're highly complex organisms doing highly complex stuff juggling an' all, in a frame of highly complex evolution of life on earth.   Science can only offer partly truths, hints, provisional guidelines, mosaique stones for each of us to filter individually, but not (yet) any dead solid thorough complete final utter ultimate explanation of everything, it all, us and the whole.

7b_wizard - - Parent

I knew about the neural system being dynamic, but didn't associate the term "neural plasticity" with it. Then in articles about motor learning you usually read things like "new synapses are being built" or "the brain establishes new connections" or alike without telling what exactly goes on.

I found Dendritic spines accomplish this by transforming synaptic input into neuronal output and also by helping to define the relationship between synapses. particularly interesting. Seems like this is nothing else than what we call "automizing" - in a chain of eye-brain-hand-coordination, from being actively regulating and interfering when still learning, the brain becomes like merely a ``neural transmitter´´ with hands ``doing by themselves´´ as reacting to what the eyes see (eye--(brain)--hand).

Also the "stress" paragraph could be interesting: More importantly, many of the mechanisms involved with increased memory retention, comprehension, and adaptation are thought to involve LTP and LTD [long term potentiating and long term depressing], two activity-dependent plasticity mechanisms that stress can directly suppress. If this implies (not only extrinsic stress inflicted by outer conditions or other people or society, but) selfmade stress when learning (like wanting too much, setting insane goals, doing near and above limit a lot, ..), this might be nothing else than what we in juggling call "enforcing errors" prohibiting improvement and landing on a plateau. Maybe a reason to always also do relaxed and find easier ways what I always plead for.

#science #efficiency #motorLearning #automizing #learning #improving #plateau

RegularJugular -

Will sloppy patterns always cause plateau? How can I juggle neater patterns?

This has been discussed a lot over the years, but I just wanted some consolidated information*.

I've experienced after many years of juggling with bad form / sloppy patterns wih 4 or more objects that: 'Juggling consistantly ugly input does not get beautiful output at the end'. It also causes more fatigue, which causes shorter runs.

Assuming that I am correct in my observation: How does someone avoid sloppy, wonky, inconsistant and generally ugly patterns with 4 or more objects? For a beginner and also as someone who has tried for years to chase difficult goals with bad form?

Thank you

*I may be asking in the wrong place

James Hennigan - - Parent

Can you specify which patterns exactly you are talking about? And also what is it about your technique that you consider 'sloppy'?

To avoid sloppy patterns in general, you could try the "don't practice mistakes" method. If you feel the pattern is too messy (maybe you're moving around too much or you're turning around or something) then just collect the props and stop juggling. Work on shorter, controlled runs. Stop when you find yourself juggling with bad form.

This is what I do with patterns like 744. Some days I can't do it for very long without moving all over the place, so I just work on shorter runs where I can stand still.

RegularJugular - - Parent

Almost any pattern, but it's easier to describe symmetrical patterns, most typically the 5 ball cascade. I used to guage my patterns quality by how long I could run them for now I want to see a beautiful pattern. So sloppiness would be anything that causes the pattern not to be smooth. Typical of my 5 ball cascade:

  • Inconsistent heights (by a significant amount)
  • Throws out of plane e.g Forward or Backward
  • Lopsided cross, one peak higher than the other
  • Constantly trying to correct for any of the above

After a while one or another* will become apparent.

For a while now I have deliberately practised short, controlled runs** for the majority of my practice. I have experienced some improvement when I stick to it, but very rapid reversal of improvement when I don't.

The biggest problem I had with that sort of method is I used not to be able to identify what the mistakes were or the different levels of importance to each mistake.

I was wondering if there is a concise way to describe good practice technique, perhaps there isn't.

*These cover just about any error result possible, but not root causes

**I try to make sure I'm doing much more of the base cascade or fountain pattern than tricks so I'm not confusing my subconscious too much.

Daniel Simu - - Parent

Don't practise the mistakes. Take your juggling to the level where you can fully concentrate on your body posture and perfect throw. This will most likely mean 1 ball.

I don't like this much, but working on 1 ball throws with a trainer who watches did help to clean up my juggling.

7b_wizard - - Parent

Yeh .. be (anytime) ready to question your basics as there might be improvement in there, which is yet hidden to you.

7b_wizard - - Parent

my two cents: I believe body posture, arm movement and the pattern should fit one another to be a smoothly running whole. I think errors come from too tensed juggling, from too much effort used, from having to correct a lot.

For the pattern this means: Aim the height, the region, the area, the top of the pattern, that is needed at your beat-interval well. (Or, vice versa: adopt your beat-speed to your preferred height). Stay in the plane. This can be achieved by imagining or actually using a bar to throw over or a ring to throw through (every single throw! constantly.). Know that height to throw to, have it internalized, automatic, 'by heart'. Don't ever do any lower throws, always get the minimum height.

For posture, this means to find which stance suits you best, for instance either have feet parallel or one foot (the stronger or weaker one) slightly ahead, or else for instance slightly bend knees or not, or still else for instance, sway body's weight from one foot to other in a rhythm while juggling, or else, still, put feet nearer or further apart. Take the pattern near your body (corresponds to upper arms hanging straight down). Watch what your hips and your shoulder-line do when juggling.

For arm's posture and arm's and hand's movement: don't juggle too far ahead of your body as it causes unnecessary tension in upper arm and shoulder. Find a way of getting props on height easily without too much effort, for example by loosening your wrists and profiting from greater lever throwing from a fingerbasket, or else by getting more thrust from hearty scoops (on cost of some more dwell-time needed),   ( or even else - which I don't recommend - by working out to have more muscle power, force and condition, endurance, to keep the pattern up even when far ahead of your body or constantly slightly tensed or grasping balls with whole hand in full palm without much lever ).

Generally an awareness of the body, where there's most tension, then changing something there, trying differently, leads to improvement of posture and arm movement. Juggling as lax as would keep the pattern up a few periods, as lazy as would go, as monotoneous as possible for example. Trying out differently throwing a lot, different arm posture, pulling the pattern to and shifting it away from you, doing wider and narrow, throwing fromout lower or fromout higher, more or less scoop, more from inside, trying faster, speedy throwing movement (= shorter dwell-time), .. things alike will an find an easier posture and style and technique(s). Varying the pattern's height, width, speediness will find your easiest (or easier) pattern that will then also suit posture and arm movement and make it a rhythmic fluent smooth whole.

I also think to have spotted some instincts to overcome: not wanting to hit your face and eyes, maybe is, what makes us throw precarious throws ahead all the time. Maybe trying to avoid collisions makes us leave the front plane. The height per beat (or vice versa)-ratio from doing less props maybe sits so deep, that it needs be overcome when oing more props (with those more props's dwelltime needs to be gained above the mere physical flight-time).

Even more general, meta: When sth feels wrong, a change is obviously needed. By varying everything (pattern, posture, movement, props, conditions), one increases the chance to find the improvements (q.e.d.), instead of doing same over and over again, hoping for it to 'happen' from alone or from stronger muscles.

I've had long easy runs with 5b cascade and periods where it did feel as easy as walking, as could go on forever that way, but I don't get it anytime and it's not simple, not obvious to find back into. Throwing from looser wrists; pulling the pattern near my body; aiming well in the first place ('feeding' the top of the pattern) were my clues to get near 1,000 throws with 5b without burning arms.

RegularJugular - - Parent

I think this is a helpful list of things to look for. It condenses most of the things I'd tried so far and a bit more into one post.

#Practice #Technique #HandyReference #JugglingWisdom

Stephen Meschke - - Parent

Where you throw the ball is less important than when you throw the ball. Cadence is quite difficult to see from a video, but you should be able to feel it when you juggle.

The balls should be coming out of your hands with the precision of a metronome. The things you list (height, plane, lopsidedness) are symptoms of bad cadence.

The throws in a beautiful juggling pattern occur at equal time intervals.

Good: Left....Right....Left....Right....Left....Right....
Bad: Left..Right......Left..Right......Left..Right......

RegularJugular - - Parent

This is something I hadn't thought about for years and certainly hadn't attributed enough importance to. I did a small amount of 'investigative juggling' and it seems to support your observation.

I think it would help to juggle a bit higher than minimum height to achieve the best control and feeling of timing*. Do you agree?



*It also looks better for an audience

RegularJugular - - Parent

This seems to have got me and 7b_wizard thinking. Answering my own question: I observed that whatever height I am used to has a strong impact on how well I can control cadence, as well as getting a height that cadence is better controlled at.

It should be self-evident that beautiful patterns will have even cadence(s*).



*cadence for each siteswap orbit

7b_wizard - - Parent

On "height(s)": I have different heights for 5b cascade:
-   a ``secure´´ one about barely a foot above head where I get my very long runs casually starting first several hundred throws from easier, faster pattern [see next below], or, when i feel secure, get back to that lower, faster pattern:
-   fluent, very easy \ "easiest", snapped-in pattern at about head height or slightly below. This pattern, its height respectively, is more risky, more liable to breakdown on outbreakers or drifts, less easy to correct or save, and I can hold it for a few hundred throws at its best. It would, alone, not make for very long runs.
-   everything below that (Eye-nose-height. Chin and below.) is drop bound below 100-120 catches (Chin: max 30 throws).
-   then a high height, outdoors without ceiling, about two / two and a half feet above head, about low 7b-height. Time plenty to scoop nicely and much more time to comfortably give thrust from forearm with few wrist-work (which latter will again be necessary with 7b on that low 7b-height, though). There or higher, aiming well to keep the balls in comfort reach fitting posture and arm's degrees of freedom get more attention. (anything above that will make me have to step to where balls land and patterns high up there will be liable to tear apart, .. guess, due to lotsa whole arm + shoulder work + more effort then making throws unprecise)

I believe, that such staggered different comfortable, `best´ heights are a direct consequence of the anatomy of the arm and its part's degrees of freedom depending on how much wrist is used, how much forearm is used, how much the upper arm moves, how much the shoulder takes part in the throw. There will be maxima and minima for any reasonable combination of the arm's part's moving together, the kinematic chain, i suppose.
[further reading, (technical; biokinematics): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arm_solution,   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/321_kinematic_structure,   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinematic_chain,   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degrees_of_freedom_%28mechanics%29,   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Articulated_robot, haven't yet found human arm's kinematic chain or degrees of freedom for moving or handling sth, even though i suspected sport's science to be concerned with such]

7b_wizard - - Parent

#biokinematics #heights #forces
Also, in Wes Peden's SALT there's a few clips with drawings of the human arm with ball in hand and forces and levers acting in and on everything, that go in direction of this topic.

7b_wizard - - Parent

#science

7b_wizard - - Parent

This should relate to showers and half-showers, where galopping is natural part of the pattern. So, maybe alternating between halfshower and cascade can increase an awareness for flawful galoping in the cascade (e.g. caused by lower throws from weakhand, or by some asymmetry in posture) and either get rid of an unwanted galop, or else adopt it as doing such slight asymmetry (in shape and beat) on purpose (if it feels more comfortable like that). Or maybe for example practise halfshowers and showers bothsided in order to 'merge' both hand's galop until they are equal then also for the cascade.

7b_wizard - - Parent

> "[..] caused by weakhd, asym posture [..]" .. or simply by emphasized beat or counting on every 2.nd beat (galop then done by the mind, with no physical cause).

7b_wizard - - Parent

.. which gets me to what i did, to count on weakhand's beats (even changing emphasis from weakhd to stronghd in e.g. a nine-rhythm during running pattern) to try and get rid of weakhand low throws when i feel it be necessary. (until you do that correction back to stable pattern automatically whenever necessary without much special intent then anymore needed)

 

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